SOINTULA, MALCOLM ISLAND

Had a slow morning today, catching up on world news (ugh! Why do we do that?) and getting a few chores done. I dismantled the anchor winch, figuring that the suggested "annual" maintenance had probably not been done for 5 or 6 years - no one takes their winch apart just to lubricate it. But that's what I did this morning while Elaine was doing laundry. Pretty boring stuff, but stuff that has to be done.

We did walk over to the 'Namgis First Nation Burial Ground which has an impressive collection of totem poles. According to the locals we talked with, totem poles are primarily visual statements explaining the identity of those who erect them. The figures on the poles represent mythical encounters of a family's ancestry with supernatural beings often represented by animal figures. The carvers added hidden meanings and visual puns, but the true meanings and significance were never written down.

Their beliefs were that nothing lasts forever, so the totems were not maintained. When it fell, or was damaged, it was time to make a new one.

It was interesting that there was one stone cross in the burial ground - a juxtaposition of cultures.

We left Alert Bay around mid-day and went the few miles of to the town of Sointula on Malcolm Island. This island has a history of being settled by a Finnish Socialist group in the early 20th century. The Socialist Commune didn't work out too well and was disbanded, but there remains a strong Finnish cultural influence here, as well as some of the socialism, represented by the major suppliers (grocery, hardware, oil/gas) being co-ops.

Unlike most marinas where they assign you a place to tie up, the instructions here were to "find a place that makes sense" in the marina, then come up to the office to register when you have time. We walked a couple of Km into town and everyone we passed gave us a greeting and welcomed us to Sointula. Even the drivers gave a wave in passing.

The grocery store was well stocked, with reasonable prices. The only thing that seems to be missing in all of these local grocery stores is seafood. You would think that since everyone fishes, catches crab and shrimp, there would be plenty around to sell. I'm beginning to think that fresh seafood changes hands in places other than the grocery stores. I'm going to have to sharpen my observation skills and find out where we can get some fresh fish & shrimp...